May 15, 2013
May 2013 – End of an era, the beginning of a very exciting one
April 1, 2013
THE SUNNY TRUCK IS UP FOR SALE
Life has moved on for me and I can’t hold onto this any longer, time to pass this onto someone else to enjoy.
Below is the basic spec sheet. You will notice I haven’t given wheel size for the current set up. This is because I do not wish to sell with them. I have also recently jumped into an Keihin FCR41 carb setup for this car. As it is not 100% with getting the right amount of fuel to them, they will not come with it and I shall sell it with the factory EFI setup as a running, moving, sliding car.
I live on the North Shore of Auckland and you are welcome to come view if you are legitimately going to buy it.
Price: $8,000. I’m pretty firm on the price so don’t expect much movement.
I am not looking to swap it for anything either
Comment if you want to buy it, please no window shoppers
READ TO THE BOTTOM
1982 Datsun 1200 Truck
Ex lendich construction
Does a sweet drift and is the funnest car I’ve driven due to being so small
S14 SR20DE w/ S14 gearbox
Shortened drive shaft
New tunnel and recessed firewall with exhaust tunnel in passenger side
Floor of cab and tunnel has been painted with POR15
2.5” exhaust with a single muffler
Braced cabin floor for the new gearbox mount
Factory plenum and alloy inlet tube ending with a pod filter
Factory exhaust manifold
S14 alloy radiator
Two electric fans
Silvia in tank fuel pump fitted to factory B120 tank with baffles fitted
KB110 struts and brakes
Brake master cylinder mounted under dash w/ braided clutch line
Struts converted to adjustable spring platform with shortened pulsar shocks and milled out cusco S13 camber plates
Rear has short and stiff shocks
Reset rear leaves with 1 1/2″ lowering block
Cut bump stops
Roll centre adjusters
Redrilled strut towers for more castor
Recently replaced lower ball joints and tie rods
Has been certified for 13×7 175/50r13 (not the size pictured) wheels and suspension
Nardi steering wheel
New handbrake cable
Genuine Datsun fender mirrors in factory location (looking a bit rough these days)
Lendich mustard construction yellow
Stainless steel monsoon window guards
Let me start this by saying that lendich construction COVERED this thing in rust proofing. That is not to say it doesn’t have rust but that the rust proofing is there. There is some rust though which I recommend having removed if longevity is the aim. There is a spot in the passenger side roof gutter, a spot in the rear quarter panel in the seam and some in the front scuttle panel. There is also surface rust in the tray. Overall it’s not the end of the world but it was never meant to be a show piece. It is crazy fun to drive and driving it is the main purpose.
Sorry I thought I had a photo of the engine bay complete, it looks mostly similar to the following:
March 3, 2013
So I have some SR parts to sell and they just so happen to piece together to form a really attractive looking package.
As posted HERE, I’m selling some Silver Top 20V 4AGE ITBS on a custom alloy manifold for the SR20DE. I also have some CUSCO exhaust headers and a complete SR20DE for sale. Right now I want to sell it all as it is because I don’t want any of it hanging around but I may be open to parting it out in the future. Get at me for more information, no time to list it all out right now.
email@example.com for more information on the setup. It will be going on trademe soonish
February 7, 2013
So it runs and the bowls don’t leak! I’m having a little issue with the throttle returning to idle even after a new auxiliary spring was added. Soon I will pull the carbs down and service the main return spring assembly.
I plumbed in a new low pressure (2-3.5psi) fuel pump and a Holley fuel pressure regulator. There is also a splitter block in there to feed the excess back to the tank. Remember that these carbs are built to run on gravity feed and hence really dislike pressure into the bowls.
I make many apologies for the visual and auditory experience of this video:
1) Damn that engine bay is ugly! It’s a work in progress and the carbs have been set up for initial testing and tuning without to much thought towards cleanliness and presentation. This will come as soon as it runs nicely.
2) Canon 7D microphones and controllers suck and I wish I had a better way of getting crisp sound.
I drove it up and down the drive way a bit bit and it definitely needs a tune but it runs fairly nicely and sounds great!
February 6, 2013
Here are the SR20 quad throttle bodies that I have for sale as photographed by Keisuke.
I purchased these from Japan for use on my Sunny truck but have since gone to FCR carbs as seen below
What you get:
AE101 20V 4AGE throttle bodies
Factory linkages and throttle cam
Custom polished alloy SR20 manifold which has built in water outlets
New fittings for each inlet tube
Polished inlet trumpets
If more images are needed I can supply at request.
Contact me here by leaving a message, please no window shoppers
I’m after NZ$650 for the above and I am happy to post internationally for those with a strong FX rate
February 2, 2013
Here’s a quick (and quite rude looking) photo of the FCRs on the current SR20. I don’t know how easy it is to do in the huge Silvia engine bay but note to self: never attempt to remove/fit stock plenum in the Datsun ever again, take the engine out. That was far too frustrating.
With the stock SR, I’ve fitted the fuel filter in the engine bay and everything fits nicely. Trying to squeeze in a fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter and a line splitter into the engine bay between the carbs and the brake master cylinder is a real hassle.
With some luck and some new fuel line, I might be able to try starting it tomorrow though I have my doubts. Fingers crossed.
February 2, 2013
Oh no, what have I done!
To be perfectly honest I was thinking about selling my truck this year and focusing on racing motorcycles… but something came up. Primal lust kicked in and here I am. They’re KEIHIN FCR41 flat slide carbs and they have me pining pretty fierce.
The unit has been sitting for years without use, after being in a S14 FL and then a rally escort project that was never finished. As I expected, the engine has a few issues, mainly surface rust on the cam lobes and I expect the bore too. It came with: a Cusco/Jasma exhaust manifold (which I will post about later), oil filter sandwich plate for an oil cooler, a Holley fuel pressure regulator and braided lines, a fuel line splitter, ecu, loom, and a modified coolant outlet.
I HAVE SOME 20V 4AGE ITBS ON A CUSTOM SR20 MANIFOLD FOR SALE IN NEW ZEALAND IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED
August 5, 2012
Spurred on a spurt of utter frustration with the amount of crap in our garage, my dad Simon and I cleaned up most of the garage last weekend. When I say clean up, I mean destroyed the place and threw out a tonne of useless mess and made more space. How good it feels to have space! Simon’s VFR400 has a bit of an issue at the moment with it running roughly and the first culprit was the carbs so this weekend off they came for a clean and a reset. Hopefully some new rubbers and a clean of all the insides will help it along.
I pulled the radiator out (I accidentally put a few holes in it) and cut the outlet off for the new radiator which I bought yesterday. I’m also (unfortunately) getting rid of the factory fan in favor of twin electric fans and an alloy shroud which I have also bought already. I just need to get some fans, wire them in and modify the outlet again. Below is a photo of the damage. I was thinking someone who was good with a TIG and was on a budget for some car build could cut off the broken half and weld up the tanks to make a cheap radiator. If that’s you, please contact me.
Speaking of TIG welding… Simon purchased a really good AC/DC TIG welder last year and I haven’t put in the time to learn it yet. This may be due to my first attempts being on alloy and well, that’s really hard to start learning on haha. Today I cleaned up a bunch of scrap mild steel and welded it all together. Damn! I’ve always known it but TIG kills MIG, I never want to MIG again! I’ve set up a little area to practice so I might start putting in a few hours here and there to bring my skills up. Preliminary attempts look promising.
July 26, 2012
Lowering a 1200 a lot and keeping the stock length castor arms is like a rough night out with your mates on the booze. You have fun and everything is going great but it gets to a point and you bail/miss judge the fence jump/walk into something you shouldn’t and now you can’t self centre when you’re walking. The problem I found in the past when drifting my truck is that the front edge of the wheel sits really close to the front edge of the wheel arch so instead of just shortening the castor arms to solve my loss of castor, I’m left with the options of either cutting the gaurds and loosing the smooth factor curve or running skinnier wheels (which wasn’t about to happen).
Instead of either of those options I’ve re-drilled the holes in the top of the strut tower by 30 degrees and effectively shifted the top of the shock towards the firewall by about 20mm. I’ve also filed out the camber plates a bit more to gain back the camber you loose when rotating the camber plate. Using our pal Pythagoras’ theorem, I can estimate an increase of about 2 degrees of castor. With other variables no doubt having an impact on the result – more mass up front, stiffer front springs and a wet track – it’s helped a lot, well obviously, but enough for me to notice a pick up in the amount the steering will self centre and rotate the wheels when switching. A pleasant change from normally having to fight the steering wheel into each switch. I definitely recommend the aforementioned modification if shortening the castor arms is posing similar problems as what I face. My sunny truck isn’t very pretty (is mustard with rust proofing surrounding it ever pretty?) but it now drifts and drives a lot nicer!
July 24, 2012
Sunday was without a doubt the happiest I’ve been since I left Australia in March. This Datsun of mine has been off the road for an eternity due to a number of distractions and money guzling activities so to have it driving and to drift with my friends again after so long, made me grin from ear to ear. Note to self: don’t start projects that are outside your current financial and time means. I only entered for a half day as I was yet to give it a real beating and didn’t know how it would handle it all. It worked out for the best however as on my last run before lunch I did a particularly heavy footed run and put a hole in the radiator! It looks like the factory plastic fan flexed enough to catch the bottom tank which is placed (foolishly) close to the fan. The blade slid off and put a hole in one of the core lines. I haven’t had it out yet but it should be fixable. The biggest entry contest that went down in the afternoon was what I was really looking forward too and I’m super gutted I didn’t get to compete… next time.
Massive thanks to my homies Joel and Mike for organizing a killer day and to the photographers who where out in the rain (I know how it feels haha) Mr. Roo Wills shot these photos and there are more on his blog stay classy that you should go look at, thanks Roo!