September 22, 2013
I developed a random film I had lying around a while back and to my suprise, half of it was from Ebisu, Japan when we went in 2010! Enjoy these two of the clean red 180SX at Kita Course. Go here for some medium format photos of the same day and follow the links for more. Also, check out this link for some more photos from our Japan drifting tour.
February 7, 2013
So it runs and the bowls don’t leak! I’m having a little issue with the throttle returning to idle even after a new auxiliary spring was added. Soon I will pull the carbs down and service the main return spring assembly.
I plumbed in a new low pressure (2-3.5psi) fuel pump and a Holley fuel pressure regulator. There is also a splitter block in there to feed the excess back to the tank. Remember that these carbs are built to run on gravity feed and hence really dislike pressure into the bowls.
I make many apologies for the visual and auditory experience of this video:
1) Damn that engine bay is ugly! It’s a work in progress and the carbs have been set up for initial testing and tuning without to much thought towards cleanliness and presentation. This will come as soon as it runs nicely.
2) Canon 7D microphones and controllers suck and I wish I had a better way of getting crisp sound.
I drove it up and down the drive way a bit bit and it definitely needs a tune but it runs fairly nicely and sounds great!
February 2, 2013
Oh no, what have I done!
To be perfectly honest I was thinking about selling my truck this year and focusing on racing motorcycles… but something came up. Primal lust kicked in and here I am. They’re KEIHIN FCR41 flat slide carbs and they have me pining pretty fierce.
The unit has been sitting for years without use, after being in a S14 FL and then a rally escort project that was never finished. As I expected, the engine has a few issues, mainly surface rust on the cam lobes and I expect the bore too. It came with: a Cusco/Jasma exhaust manifold (which I will post about later), oil filter sandwich plate for an oil cooler, a Holley fuel pressure regulator and braided lines, a fuel line splitter, ecu, loom, and a modified coolant outlet.
I HAVE SOME 20V 4AGE ITBS ON A CUSTOM SR20 MANIFOLD FOR SALE IN NEW ZEALAND IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED
September 17, 2012
Thanks Chris for the photos! This was such a fun day, I can’t wait for the next one. Between motorbikes I’ve been getting along with fixing the radiator. I have everything I need, I just need to modify the water outlet to fit the thermo switch and wire that in and we’re good to go.
See Freshly whipped for more of the day. Come on Chris, get some more video up!
July 26, 2012
Lowering a 1200 a lot and keeping the stock length castor arms is like a rough night out with your mates on the booze. You have fun and everything is going great but it gets to a point and you bail/miss judge the fence jump/walk into something you shouldn’t and now you can’t self centre when you’re walking. The problem I found in the past when drifting my truck is that the front edge of the wheel sits really close to the front edge of the wheel arch so instead of just shortening the castor arms to solve my loss of castor, I’m left with the options of either cutting the gaurds and loosing the smooth factor curve or running skinnier wheels (which wasn’t about to happen).
Instead of either of those options I’ve re-drilled the holes in the top of the strut tower by 30 degrees and effectively shifted the top of the shock towards the firewall by about 20mm. I’ve also filed out the camber plates a bit more to gain back the camber you loose when rotating the camber plate. Using our pal Pythagoras’ theorem, I can estimate an increase of about 2 degrees of castor. With other variables no doubt having an impact on the result – more mass up front, stiffer front springs and a wet track – it’s helped a lot, well obviously, but enough for me to notice a pick up in the amount the steering will self centre and rotate the wheels when switching. A pleasant change from normally having to fight the steering wheel into each switch. I definitely recommend the aforementioned modification if shortening the castor arms is posing similar problems as what I face. My sunny truck isn’t very pretty (is mustard with rust proofing surrounding it ever pretty?) but it now drifts and drives a lot nicer!
July 24, 2012
Sunday was without a doubt the happiest I’ve been since I left Australia in March. This Datsun of mine has been off the road for an eternity due to a number of distractions and money guzling activities so to have it driving and to drift with my friends again after so long, made me grin from ear to ear. Note to self: don’t start projects that are outside your current financial and time means. I only entered for a half day as I was yet to give it a real beating and didn’t know how it would handle it all. It worked out for the best however as on my last run before lunch I did a particularly heavy footed run and put a hole in the radiator! It looks like the factory plastic fan flexed enough to catch the bottom tank which is placed (foolishly) close to the fan. The blade slid off and put a hole in one of the core lines. I haven’t had it out yet but it should be fixable. The biggest entry contest that went down in the afternoon was what I was really looking forward too and I’m super gutted I didn’t get to compete… next time.
Massive thanks to my homies Joel and Mike for organizing a killer day and to the photographers who where out in the rain (I know how it feels haha) Mr. Roo Wills shot these photos and there are more on his blog stay classy that you should go look at, thanks Roo!
July 21, 2012
I’m all loaded up and ready for the first drift day with the SR20 tomorrow. Here’s hoping nothing big goes wrong! Between driving I’ll definitely be shooting so I’ll post some photos up next week.