July 30, 2013
Sometime I forget I even owned this car but thankfully the new owner Mark has kept in touch. The above photo of the Sunny is from the Hutt Valley Motorsport autocross held on the weekend. Apparently the Sunny went great and finally turned a few tires into smoke in the dry. I can’t say just how happy I am that this car went to someone who is taking care of it and is shredding some tires, it makes all that hard work worth it even if it’s not me driving! Mark placed 19/43 entrants, between a silvia and a skyline, nice one Mark.
I believe it is currently in the process of being certified for road use although it was already certified for the suspension and wheels. Will keep posting on it where possible.
Credit to simply vanilla for the photos, thanks!
February 2, 2013
Oh no, what have I done!
To be perfectly honest I was thinking about selling my truck this year and focusing on racing motorcycles… but something came up. Primal lust kicked in and here I am. They’re KEIHIN FCR41 flat slide carbs and they have me pining pretty fierce.
The unit has been sitting for years without use, after being in a S14 FL and then a rally escort project that was never finished. As I expected, the engine has a few issues, mainly surface rust on the cam lobes and I expect the bore too. It came with: a Cusco/Jasma exhaust manifold (which I will post about later), oil filter sandwich plate for an oil cooler, a Holley fuel pressure regulator and braided lines, a fuel line splitter, ecu, loom, and a modified coolant outlet.
I HAVE SOME 20V 4AGE ITBS ON A CUSTOM SR20 MANIFOLD FOR SALE IN NEW ZEALAND IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED
November 2, 2012
I can’t say I’ve ever been a fan of over fenders on small japanese classics but there are a few that do it so well that you can’t help but like them! If you’ve been following beeoneoneoh since the days where I would post b chassis photos every day, then you will remember Teruhisa Inoue’s KB110. If not, feast your eyes on the TECHNICAL FACTORY aggression brought to you by the one and only Park (Mr. HIGHTOPFADE). Follow this link right here to see more crispy photographs of these beautiful body lines.
I follow about 3 different TECHNICAL FACTORY yahoo blogs but none of them feature this car in depth. When I find it I’ll post it. Thanks Park!
September 17, 2012
Thanks Chris for the photos! This was such a fun day, I can’t wait for the next one. Between motorbikes I’ve been getting along with fixing the radiator. I have everything I need, I just need to modify the water outlet to fit the thermo switch and wire that in and we’re good to go.
See Freshly whipped for more of the day. Come on Chris, get some more video up!
July 26, 2012
Lowering a 1200 a lot and keeping the stock length castor arms is like a rough night out with your mates on the booze. You have fun and everything is going great but it gets to a point and you bail/miss judge the fence jump/walk into something you shouldn’t and now you can’t self centre when you’re walking. The problem I found in the past when drifting my truck is that the front edge of the wheel sits really close to the front edge of the wheel arch so instead of just shortening the castor arms to solve my loss of castor, I’m left with the options of either cutting the gaurds and loosing the smooth factor curve or running skinnier wheels (which wasn’t about to happen).
Instead of either of those options I’ve re-drilled the holes in the top of the strut tower by 30 degrees and effectively shifted the top of the shock towards the firewall by about 20mm. I’ve also filed out the camber plates a bit more to gain back the camber you loose when rotating the camber plate. Using our pal Pythagoras’ theorem, I can estimate an increase of about 2 degrees of castor. With other variables no doubt having an impact on the result – more mass up front, stiffer front springs and a wet track – it’s helped a lot, well obviously, but enough for me to notice a pick up in the amount the steering will self centre and rotate the wheels when switching. A pleasant change from normally having to fight the steering wheel into each switch. I definitely recommend the aforementioned modification if shortening the castor arms is posing similar problems as what I face. My sunny truck isn’t very pretty (is mustard with rust proofing surrounding it ever pretty?) but it now drifts and drives a lot nicer!
July 24, 2012
Sunday was without a doubt the happiest I’ve been since I left Australia in March. This Datsun of mine has been off the road for an eternity due to a number of distractions and money guzling activities so to have it driving and to drift with my friends again after so long, made me grin from ear to ear. Note to self: don’t start projects that are outside your current financial and time means. I only entered for a half day as I was yet to give it a real beating and didn’t know how it would handle it all. It worked out for the best however as on my last run before lunch I did a particularly heavy footed run and put a hole in the radiator! It looks like the factory plastic fan flexed enough to catch the bottom tank which is placed (foolishly) close to the fan. The blade slid off and put a hole in one of the core lines. I haven’t had it out yet but it should be fixable. The biggest entry contest that went down in the afternoon was what I was really looking forward too and I’m super gutted I didn’t get to compete… next time.
Massive thanks to my homies Joel and Mike for organizing a killer day and to the photographers who where out in the rain (I know how it feels haha) Mr. Roo Wills shot these photos and there are more on his blog stay classy that you should go look at, thanks Roo!
July 23, 2012
I’ll do a quick run down on how the drift day went soon but here’s a prelimary photo from autofocused.co.nz, thanks! And yes, it was wet. That’s Keisuke in the passenger seat, many laughs were had.
July 21, 2012
I’m all loaded up and ready for the first drift day with the SR20 tomorrow. Here’s hoping nothing big goes wrong! Between driving I’ll definitely be shooting so I’ll post some photos up next week.
July 8, 2012
I’ve become lazy at updating beeoneoneoh because after following a few incredibly well documented and fast moving builds, I hardly feel motivated to do so. Well I have some news at the least so here’s where I am:
The last post I did on the 120 I was driving it up and down the driveway but it was lacking a few crucial things which I’ve now resolved.
- Alternator now charges the battery
- Swaybar is now installed with new bolts/nuts and I’ve cleaned up the links. I took out the thicker 120Y bar because I thought it wasn’t helping with understeer with the A15 in there. I may put it back but the factory one is fine for now. Note, when you properly lower a B110/B120 the swaybar rotates and touches the front of the sump. I made shortened linkages to fix this but with the SR sitting nicely into the firewall, I no longer need them. Factory items work perfect.
- I went around the engine bay and tightened a bunch of things which I had left finger tight as it was all being taken off so frequently. This definitely fixed a few issues.
- I went through the wiring with a diagram and deleted some unnecessary items and connected everything properly. I still need to figure out a few things but I did get the use of many items back which helps when you’re trying to test drive around the hood at night.
This week I drove it around the block with unsatisfactory results but it drove non the less. I figured that having fuel in the tank (that wasn’t stale) was a good place to start. I drove it again tonight after doing the above with very good results. Clean power delivery, and a smooth induction howl through the valley. I’m stoked, over the moon in fact. Time to get serious about knocking this bastard out so I can drive it without the fear of loosing my license.
Here’s an old photo for nostalgia’s sake: